Waves, by Fredric Raichlen
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Waves, by Fredric Raichlen
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Sitting on the beach on a sunny summer day, we enjoy the steady advance and retreat of the waves. In the water, enthusiastic waders jump and shriek with pleasure when a wave hits them. But where do these waves come from? How are they formed, and why do they break on the shore?
In Waves, Fredric Raichlen traces the evolution of waves, from their generation in the deep ocean to their effects on the coast. He explains, in a way that is readily understandable to nonscientists, both the science of waves themselves and the technology that can be used to protect us against their more extreme forms, including hurricanes and tsunamis. After offering a basic definition of waves and explaining the mechanics of wind-wave generation, Raichlen describes how waves travel, how they shoal (rise), how they break, and how they transform in other ways. He goes on to describe, among other things, the complicated sun-Earth-moon combinations that create astronomical tides (the high and low tides that occur daily and predictably); the effects of waves on the beach, including rip currents and beach erosion, and on harbors and shipping; and the building of breakwaters to protect harbors and bays. He discusses hurricanes, storm surges, and hurricane-generated waves. He offers a brief history of tsunamis, including Sumatra's in 2004 and Japan's in 2011 and explains the mechanisms that generate them (including earthquakes, landslides, and volcanoes).
Waves can be little ripples that lap peacefully at the shore or monstrous tsunamis that destroy everything in their paths. Describing the science underlying this astonishing variety, Waves offers a different kind of beach listening.
- Sales Rank: #110003 in Audible
- Published on: 2015-09-30
- Format: Unabridged
- Original language: English
- Running time: 258 minutes
Most helpful customer reviews
9 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
Very educational about types of sea waves
By Kent Price
Great little book (5" x 7" x 1" thick) by MIT Press. It has sections about waves, the wind, tides, waves and the shore, extreme waves, and a appendix and glossary of word definitions. The book contains equations, diagrams, and pictures. The book describes earthquake generated waves including the 2011 Japanese tsunami which generated "tidal waves".
One oddity of layout is that a number of pages are black with large white text to emphasize points made in the text. I would have preferred pictures rather than repetition of the text.
All in all, I enjoyed the book.
PS: a great textbook reference is "Wind Waves, their generation and propagation on the ocean surface" by Blair Kinsman, Department of Oceanography, John Hopkins University.
4 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
Brings deep knowledge of waves to non technical readers
By Zoey
A great overview of the causes and consequences of waves. Timely given the recent events around the world including Sandy and the Tsunami in Japan. I must say, I don't understand how the other reviewer found this book lacking. I also bought this book after reading the Wall Street Journal Review and I thought the writing was clear and engaging and the information was presented in a way that non technical readers could easily understand. This is a book that should be on the shelves of anyone living along the coasts, or anyone interested in how and why waves form the way they do.
3 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Waves
By Gordon Moog
This fascinating little book tells one everything one could want to know about waves. An easy read since (1) the heavy math is in an appendix and (2) Mr. Raichlen provides us with a wonderful glossary. I wish more authors understood the importance of glossaries and complete indexes. One can only hope.
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